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So then , another weekend arrived and another hard days work was one the cards.
During the week I had had the O/S bearings, Head gasket, head bolts and a different oil pump sourced for me and it was now up to me to fit them all. Up early and down the Pharm once again after a our usual Pre McDonalds breakfast. Breakfat of Champions and ammature Mechanics world wide.
However, as some of those that were in Germany will remember, I made a small pledge that Big Red would return, and I would make sure it came back, Bigger, Better and Redder, and this rebuild would be the start of that.
And whats this I found in the boot while getting out my camping equipment?
Only a 3mm spacer plate for lowering the compression. FI me up.
But, before I get carried away, I had big ends that needed attention. As I mentioned, previously, I regard myself to have been very lucky to get away with no marks on the crank, so it was with some glee that I scurried under the engine.
Tbh and I know its the second time I have had to do it, changing the big ends isn't too bad of a job. Its certianly a lot easier when you don't have to do it while laying on your back but beggers can't be choosers etc Getting the new shell on the bottom half of the rod is very easy, but a little trickier getting it on the rod while its still in the engine but if your patient you can get it lined up and fitting properly without much problem.
So with the bearings in it was time to torque the ARP rod bolts up. 52nm or 38lb ft if your that way inclined. Checked them all at least twice not due to OCD but cos we don't want them coming loose!
I decided to switch pumps as the one I had had taken a whack and bent the bottom of it. It was also full of bearing material that would have been an absolute mare to clean out 100% so on the new pump went, and after my baffled sump had taken some lovin' from Mr Hammer and Mr Block of Wood we had remodeled the sump back to somewhere near it should have been, they were both refitted.
Bottom end fixed. Hopefully.
Onto the head.
Usual head gasket drills to be completed. Block and head scrapped to remove anything left over from old head gasket, make sure Headbolt threads are clean and clear of water and oil etc etc.
Now, to fit the spacer plate you have to take what VW provide (standard gasket) take it apart, remove the middle bit of the gasket and replace it with the spacer plate. To do that, take one bench grinder, and carefully grind the rivits out the 4 corners and teh gasket seperates nicely.
Make sure you don't loose/forget which is the bottom and the top layer and to make life easier, make sure the locating pins are in the block.
Fit the bottom layer:
Then on goes the spacer plate. Spot the deliberate Mistake....
Now, I'm no expert, but I don't think it will quite work, so....
Thats better Nick. Round Peg, Round hole and all that.....
And she's on:
The Spacer is 3mm think. Good enough to lower the compression to 8:1 which will allow for a generous sprinkling of boost, but that will come at a later date.
For now it will run NA. It might take a small bit of a hit on performace, but on expirence it isn't too bad and it will be custom mapped in this set up to get the most out of it. We'll see on the test drive how it goes.
Then the third top layer goes on and its ready to receive the head. You have to be a little carefull when putting the head on because as the layers aren't rivetted together they can easily move. But once the head drops on Head bolt time, Torques = 40nm 60nm and then 2x 90 degree turns.
Me in action doing the second 90 degree turns. Can get quite tight this...
At this piont, my photographer needed to go home. Unfortunatly he was also my lift home so I was pretty much commited to it the car being fixed and working
Now, to relive Post 27 of this thread, we go from head just going on to pretty much finished and rebuilt engine:
So, the engine was back together. There was nothing else for it. Filled it with Fuchs oil and some water, primed the oil pump to get oil round the system and there was only one thing left. Start the bugger. It sounded fine with full (lowered) compression on all 6 so it should be fine
I was a bit nervous, always am after building an engine and trying to fire it up for the first time, but I turned it over and after a few seconds she fires into life. Straight onto 6 cylinders, no funny misfiring or struggling to start, a nice crisp start up like it had been together for years. Ok there was a bit of knocking, but there always will be on an engine that has been drained of oil and the pressure needed to force oil to the places it needed to be.
A few seconds later though it was running clean with only an intimitent tappit noise, nothing to be worried about. Topped the water up let it get to tempreture, and make sure no fluids were leaking and we were looking good. Once the fans kicked in I was happy to give it a bit of a drive round the Pharm to make sure nothing obvious was wrong and a proper test drive.
One thing was wrong though, the brakes were crap. Somewhere along the line there seems to have gotten air in the system, and quick bleed and the pedal was bake to where I should have been. Need to have a look a them in the near furture though, it shouldn't have gotten air in there so I'll need to investigate. Also need to fit some braided hoses on the front. Have them everywhere else as they came on the car, but somehow the fronts passed me by.
So, I was happy to test drive it on the road. Just a fairly quick run round the block for 5 or 10 miles and it was great. There seems to be little to no performance drop with the lower compression, so I'm happy. There may be a little gone from the top end, but the mid range grunt is still there. With no Knocks bangs or anything, a few minutes later I was driving home. Very happy with the car and its perfomance. Engine sounds sweet and the car drives very well.
Today, I ran it upto 100 miles and it was time to fit the proper oil. A bit of sacralidge throwing away brand new oil I had put in it the day before, but there was bound to be some crap in the engine I couldn't clean out and the small amount of miles would have bene enough to give it a good clean.
Out came the "old" oil and in went Silkolene Pro S 5w - 40 fully synthetic Race grade engine oil. Some proper stuff that Rigs and I had previously used in the old Vr track day car with plenty of success. Bit pricey @ £55 for 6 litres but I'm not running the risk of killing my engine again.
Running temps with this oil seemed to have dropped a couple of degree's with this stuff, and I know from expirence it is stable upto 120+ish degree's so it should do the job if I decide to do a track day or 2 in it.
So now that is left is for me to enjoy the car again. I'm hopefull of getting it upto the Donny Track day at the end of November, although I won't be ontrack in it. So if people want a nose around et me know.
I'll have hopefully given it a good clean and taken the Tent out the back by then.......
Big Red is Back. I have hopefully made it better, it will soon be bigger (or at least power out put will be) and now I just need to do something to make it redder.....
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